October 2026 – Together with my girlfriend Ruth and six other guests, I joined Wild Expeditions on their early-winter trip into the heart of the Tian Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan, close to the Chinese border. The goal was simple: to catch a glimpse of one of the roughly 400 snow leopards that live in the country’s high mountains. No one promised success. These animals are famously elusive, and this particular region is completely wild – no habituated cats, no drive-up sightings. In the end we never saw one. Yet the trip still ranked among the most memorable wildlife experiences I’ve had.
For seven nights we lived in small tents at roughly 3,000 metres. Each day we rode deeper into the range. Over six days on horseback we covered about 90 kilometres, sometimes through steep, rocky or snow-covered ground that looked almost impassable. The horses handled it with a calm, sure-footed confidence that was impressive to watch. On one day we pushed up to around 4,000 metres in deep snow – thin air, bright light, and silence broken only by the sound of hooves and our own breathing.
The daily rhythm was straightforward. We rode for a few hours, then stopped for longer scanning sessions – usually two or three of them each day. With powerful binoculars we, together with the rangers, methodically searched the surrounding slopes and ridges for any sign of movement. Ibex, argali and other mountain wildlife were the main targets, but of course the real prize remained the snow leopard. We never found it, yet its presence was unmistakable: fresh tracks in the snow, and clear images from the camera traps the rangers had set. Those small pieces of evidence were strangely satisfying. The animal was out there, moving through the same landscape we were slowly exploring on horseback.
The combination of high-altitude camping, long days in the saddle and careful, patient searching created a rare kind of immersion. The landscapes were vast and austere – high peaks, open valleys and the constant sense of being very far from anywhere. It felt like genuine expedition travel rather than a packaged wildlife tour.
A big thanks to Wild Expeditions and Chris Beard for putting together such a well-run trip. We didn’t get the sighting we hoped for, but we left with a much clearer picture of what it actually takes to look for snow leopards in truly wild country. We’ll be back.
A few pictures from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan
We arrived a day early, giving us the chance to explore Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, on our own before meeting up with the rest of the group. Nestled at the foot of the Tian Shan mountains, the city is surprisingly green and leafy, with wide tree-lined boulevards, Soviet-era architecture, and a relaxed atmosphere that makes it an easy and pleasant place to wander.
Driving deep into the Tian Shan mountains
In took two full days to reach our base camp for the week, one day in a minibus and one day in capable off roaders. During the first day we spent an hour at Fairy Tale Valley. On the second day we spent time on stops due to all the construction work on the new Silky Way road between China and Europe before turning off and heading deep into the mountains.
Our week riding horses even further into the Tian Shan mountains
Six days on horseback through towering, sunlit mountains, all in the hope of catching even a brief glimpse of a snow leopard. Camera traps recorded its silent presence, and we found its fresh footprints in the snow – yet the animal itself remained hidden, no matter how many hours we spent scanning the ridges and valleys.
A huge thanks to Chris Beard from Wild Expeditions for taking us along on this amazing trip.
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